kayaking on Loch Leven near Glencoe, Scotland, 2018

kayaking on Loch Leven near Glencoe, Scotland, 2018

Friday, July 12, 2019

Charleston, S.C. -- Historic Meets Hip

Continuing on our summer vacation, we drove from Savannah, GA to Charleston, SC. This second city on our tri-town trip surprised me. I expected lots of history, old buildings, statues in tribute to old war heroes, much like Savannah. What I didn't expect was the progressive nature of the city. While holding on to their historic legacy, they also have a firm grasp on urban revitalization, restoration, and re-purposing. The stellar Visitors Center resides in an old train station. There's free bus transportation, numerous bike share companies, sunscreen dispensers and in-ground doggy do-do receptacles in city parks, and an obvious commitment to recycling. There's a hip vibe, with trendy rooftop bars and coffee shops, boutiques, art galleries, restaurants, and breweries housed in once-abandoned buildings.

Because we only had a couple days in each city, we basically stayed in Charleston's historic Downtown Peninsula. The riverfront is a popular shady place to play and pass the time. Nearby is the delightful seafood restaurant, Fleet Landing, located in what was once a navy supply depot. Crab is a popular menu item in these parts. We had She Crab Bisque and Crab Cakes.




Little has changed in the post office, except maybe the Wanted posters and the price of a stamp. Such attention to detail! It's an excellent example of historic preservation. And the Postal Museum is aptly located within the post office.



As we strolled through the old city blocks, we happened upon an enchanting section of Church St. Ambling along, we caught glimpses of backyard gardens and southern charm through decorative wrought iron gates.




One of our favorite things to do in Charleston was to discover the "secret" alleyways between buildings and spontaneously duck in and explore, just to see where they lead. We found such unexpected beauty and whimsy. In other cities, these hidden spaces might be relegated to parking or garbage cans. But in Charleston, residents landscape them with lush shade-loving plants and quirky curiosities.




Charleston is known for its history, but it is also an artsy town. Quite coincidentally, we were there during their annual arts festival, Piccolo Spoleto, a two-week long multi-faceted arts extravaganza with hundreds of performances of music, dance, theater, and visual arts. (Which could explain why we had such a hard time finding accommodations!) We browsed a fine arts exhibit in a city park and boarded the Carolina Queen for a blues concert/sunset cruise.




And it's science-oriented -- there's the Mace Brown Museum of Natural History (the first natural history museum in the country, I read) and the South Carolina Aquarium. We didn't have time for either of these.

But we did check out the City Market. Handmade baskets such as these, made in the Gula tradition, surely define the Charleston craft culture. Basket weavers hawk their wares throughout the city, especially in the City Market. These works of art are exquisite, unique, and the artists are engaging.

Image result for charleston basket weavers photos
Photo from this website.

Other memorable sights . . . historic cemeteries and colorful architecture.